Lake Kariba - Zimbabwe's Inland Ocean

When we found some signs, I had to dig into the soft sand like a dog looking for its bone, until I came across about 40 cylindrical cocoon-like eggs. These I was told to handle carefully, as turning them would kill the developing reptile. Another crocodile peculiarity is that the incubation temperature determines the sex. This bizarre freak of nature produces mostly males at 33°C and almost all females at 32°C.

You might think that the density of man-eating crocodiles would prohibit you from taking a refreshing dip in the cooling waters of Lake Kariba, but luckily many of the houseboats have a swimming cage. Crocodiles are not the only life threatening danger in the lake, hippopotami kill more people in Africa than any other animal.

These giant harmless-looking beasts become very grumpy if you invade their territory, or if you get between them and the water while they are grazing on grassy banks. It would only take one snap of those massive jaws to split you in two, but ironically they are strictly vegetarian, so they would spit you out again in disgust.

Don't worry, you are quite safe as long as you don't do anything really stupid. Just enjoy the wildlife and don't try and make friends with it. Africa equals animals and this one very good reason for you to come.

Houseboat with a Butler

Game viewing on foot or by safari vehicle is on offer around the lake at several suerb game lodges, and is sometimes included in the price of a fully serviced houseboat. So too is fishing, all meals and the services of butler and small launching craft.

The boats sleep from 8 people to upwards of 14 and drifts around the lake at your pleasure. It really is a most relaxing form of holiday, particularly for keen fishermen. This is tiger fish territory. A renowned fighting fish that can reach 15 kg in weight. It is such a popular sport that there is an annual tiger-fishing tournament.

What about the weather? Well if I tell you that October is known as 'suicide month, you might wish to avoid it. September to March is summertime and it really is too hot and humid for all but the most colonial Brits. The winter months of June to August, however, are balmy and pleasant.

The main town that lies at one end of the massive lake is Kariba Heights. It is carefully situated 600 metres above the lake up a steep hill - I suppose in case Nyaminyami decides to vent any more of his anger.

The town lies along ancient elephant paths and it is possible, although unusual, to trip over elephant dung on your way to the bank. There are however plenty of places close by to try a true African safari.